“Uncle John Campbell’s house was a big white one, smothered in orchards. Here, in other days, there was a trio of merry cousins to rush out and drag me in with greeting and laughter. The very walls of that house must have been permeated by the essence of good times. And there was a famous old pantry, always stored with goodies, into which it was our habit to crowd at bedtime and devour unholy snacks with sounds of riot and mirth.” L.M. Montgomery, The Alpine Path: The Story of My Career
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Sara Grace in Maison Margiela Artisanal by John Galliano, photo by Nick Knight, V Magazine, Summer 2017 issue.
When Renzo Rosso acquired Maison Martin Margiela in 2002, it was described as a wedding of fashion’s Greta Garbo with Harpo Marx.
In 2014 he appointed John Galliano to take over the creative direction of Margiela, founded by an intensely secretive Belgian designer.
The appointment telegraphed Rosso’s daring approach to the fashion business and raised questions about how one of the industry’s great romantics might interpret a house built on avant-garde ideas like deconstruction.
“Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul,” said Rosso. “John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time. I look forward to his return to create that fashion dream that only he can create and wish him to here find his new home.”
Galliano was sitting on the sidelines since being ousted from Christian Dior and his signature fashion house in 2011.
This appointment represented something of an about-face for Margiela, whose Belgian founder was often described as the industry’s invisible man for his Greta Garbo-like ways. Following his retirement in 2009, the house left an anonymous team to carry on his legacy, steadfastly refusing to identify any its members.
Prized for his ultrafeminine, historically inspired designs, and a particular penchant for bias-cut gowns, Galliano is hardly an obvious choice for a house known for cleft-toed boots, deconstructed fashions and all-white stores.
Despite the outcry that precipitated Galliano’s downfall at Dior, early industry reactions to his appointment at Margiela were mainly positive.
Although controversial, there is no doubt that Galliano has great energy and is an undisputed visionary. He has a wide repertoire even if he is better known for his theatrical flair, and no doubt he has found a way to bridge his style with the familiar signature deconstruction of the Margiela house. #saragrace#maisonmargiela#artisanal#johngalliano#renzorosso#nickknight#vmagazine#heritage#martinmargiela#fashionlegacy#historyoffashion#talent#innovation#avantgarde ...